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bhutan

 

The Destination

If the concept of Eden is constantly on your mind, then you’d probably have entertained thoughts of visiting Bhutan at some point. Granted, this isn’t a country anyone can visit at will — to keep the numbers of tourists to a manageable level, the country has an array of policies in place to, for want of a better phrase, keep the riff-raff at bay. Taking a cue from erstwhile paradises — Bali, Kyoto and Sapa come to mind — devolving from the ravages of mass tourism, Bhutan has been levying what it currently calls a sustainable development fee since it opened its doors to tourism in 1974. The desired effects are grounded on a ‘high value, low impact’ model for the nation’s cultural and economic tapestry, and for better or worse, they have kept Bhutan’s valleys green and its environs pristine till today.


A little known fact is that Bhutan is the most mountainous country in the world, with 98.8 percent of its landscape dominated by mountains. The highest point here is 7500m above sea level with many human settlements in and around valleys commonly between 2000m to 3000m altitudes The topography across districts is distinct and diverse, from subtropical to coniferous, and to call these landscapes picturesque will be criminally inexact. These are epiphany-inducing sights worth crossing oceans for, and with the right guides and accommodations, Bhutan rides high on many ultimate travel bucket lists. The proverbial brambles and brooks are a big draw granted, but the remoteness of the land is just as transcendent. Roughly 55 times the size of Singapore, Bhutan’s population hovers just below 800,000 in 2024. No where else on earth is under-development better managed than in this hermit kingdom. 

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There are no secrets that making a trip to Bhutan isn’t going to be a walk in the park — weeks of planning are in order if one is keen to head to one of the world’s most cloistered countries. In the age of digital travel, Bhutan remains largely un-automated. No one can visit the country without a visa, a tour guide and a detailed itinerary that is more prose than point form. Even purchasing an air ticket can be testing, as there are only two airlines catering to the country’s aviation needs with just a handful of routes within a regional network. The most convenient direct flights are from Bangkok, and more recently, Singapore via Drukair. 

Fortuitously, the country is dotted with a plethora of splendid luxury hotels that would happily take care of all the logistical details of the trip for their guests. The conventional itinerary is to spend a few nights in each valley of choice timed to individual flight schedules. Our itinerary via the direct Drukair flight from Singapore was 11 days and we visited six lodges in four valleys, traversing a distance of roughly 440 km. Winding routes through mountains notwithstanding, the journey was comfortable as we snaked through majestic passes close to 4000m above sea level. The lodges that welcomed us throughout the journey were stunning, and the vistas and experiences they’ve curated have left indelible impressions for a long time to come. Here are four of the most popular valleys of Bhutan, their destination highlights, and the best hotels to luxuriate in while playing guests in the Land of the Thunder Dragon.

 

Paro


Paro is a historic town where Bhutan’s only international airport was built and is therefore the first destination for all international travellers entering the country by flight. Touching down into Paro presents a visual feast — from Guwahati, the stopover Indian city for all flights to and from Singapore, the aircraft swiftly ascends over the rugged peaks and dramatic meanders of Bhutan before landing on the tiny airstrip of Paro Airport, largely surrounded by farmlands. bhutan best hotels, attractions and valleys. The valley is visually spellbinding, a gorgeous patchwork of pastoral livelihood with agricultural fields dotted with olden buildings. And in Paro as with the other high valleys of Bhutan, you practically live amongst the clouds.


Paro’s history stretches back to the 17th century when the Rinpung Dzong (fortress) was officially consecrated. The famous Tiger’s Nest Monastery is perched dramatically on a cliff in the upper Paro Valley, accessible only via hooves and feet, and is one of the most popular sacred sites constantly visited by tourists. Many other monasteries and temples are also found in or near Paro, often raised dramatically high and impossible to reach. The Ta Dzong houses Bhutan’s National Museum, exhibiting collections of Bhutanese statues, paintings and other art in an impressive 17th-century watchtower.

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Punakha


Of the four valleys we visited, Punakha has the lowest elevation at 1200m, which translates to daily temperatures that are regularly above 30 degrees celsius in high summer (June to September).This also means warmer climes in the depth of winter where the valley is rarely under 10 degree celsius. The Mo Chhu (Mother River) snaking through the gorgeous valleys of Punakha. (Image: Cedric Tan)
Punakha is the erstwhile capital of Bhutan renowned for its two main rivers, the Pho Chhu (Father River) and Mo Chhu (Mother River), and its agricultural expanse features stunning hillside cascades of rice terraces. Standing near the confluence of the 2 rivers is the Pungthang Dewachen Phodrang (Palace of Great Happiness) or Punakha Dzong, constructed in 1637 and widely regarded as the country’s most beautiful and culturally significant Dzong.

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Punakha Dzong, a stunning example of Bhutanese architecture, is the second oldest dzong in Bhutan and a significant religious center. The Punakha Suspension Bridge is one of the longest suspension bridges in Bhutan, offering scenic views of the river and surrounding landscape. There are also hiking trails along the rivers and in the right seasons, the rapids here afford opportunities for rafting and kayaking too. Punakha Dzong is Bhutan’s second largest fort raised at the confluence of the Mother and Father Rivers. (Image: Cedric Tan)
A visit to Chimi Lhakhang is a must to take in the history of the fertility temple and its ritual phalluses. Chimi Lhakhang is dedicated to the monk Drukpa Kinley who in the late 15th century used humour, songs and outrageous behaviour to dramatise his teachings.

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Gangtey


Gangtey is simply magical. Breathtaking doesn’t quite begin to describe the glacial valley, also known as Phobjikha Valley, which at an elevation some 3,000m above sea level, the cliche does take on a literal bent. To adorn Gangtey with a litany of cliches isn’t an overkill, because there really isn’t any easy way to understate the beauty of these ethereal plains. In the height of summer, the daily temperatures here hover under 25 degrees Celsius, and alpine flowers unfurl with haste under the highland sun. Untethered ponies and cattle graze with wild abandon, and crystal clear brooks flow freely through the meadows. Suffice to say, every hour of the day here is mesmerising, but the golden rays of the pre-dusk spectrum seem to be the most transformative. They penetrate the constant clouds that hang really close to earth here, flooding the entire valley in golden swathes just before the primordial night creeps in and quietly extinguishes the light. Those plagued by urban existences will find such scenes healing to say the least.

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From October, the valley of Gangtey becomes the winter sanctuary of the highly endangered black neck cranes that descend here in great numbers. Arriving in dramatic fashion, the cranes purportedly circle Gangtey Monastery three times before touching down after making their yearly aerial migration from the Tibetan Plateau. Also known as the Gangtey Goemba, the 16th century monastery houses a school and living quarters for monks as well as meditation facilities. It is also the site of the colourful Black-necked Crane Festival celebrated by the locals on 12 Nov every year. The surrounding hills are also rich in wildlife, with barking deer, snow leopards, black bears and foxes just some of the natural residents here so trekking and hiking trails across the valley are ever popular with wildlife enthusiasts here.

Thimpu
 

Thimpu is the capital and largest city of Bhutan, with a population under 100,000 spread over 26.1 km sq. The city is nestled in a picturesque valley and has no traffic lights regulating its roads, just traffic police doing their job in a quaint post at the only roundabout in the entire city. There is a high concentration of urban buildings here, mostly residential blocks no more than the mandated five-storey limit, although taller ones have been appearing around the city of late. As a young capital city — appointed only in 1961 — developments are palpable within this administrative and economic sphere, although like most places in Bhutan, the religious and cultural imperium is never out of sight. The surrounding countryside is largely rustic farmlands, and beyond them lie the stunning mountain ranges that define and dominate the topography of Bhutan endlessly.

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Thimpu is the best place to understand the historical and cultural tapestry of the country, with museums to visit, temples to explore and shops to check out. The monumental edifices around the city are the Tashichho Dzong, the official seat of the country’s secular government, the Buddha Dordenma, a seated bronze and gilded Buddha statue towering 51m in height, and the National Memorial Chorten, a Tibetan style stupa built in 1974. The weekend market with its maze of shops and stalls is one of the best places to understand life and living amongst the Bhutanese and add to one’s collection of foreign delicacies and cultural curios. Simply Bhutan is an interactive ‘living’ museum that presents various aspects of traditional life in Bhutan with cultural displays and mocked-up village scenes.

Getting to Bhutan from Singapore


Drukair now flies direct from Singapore to Paro twice a week. The duration of the flight is around 6 hours 15 mins one-way with a short 50 mins ground time at Guwahati International Airport in India. The flights offer both business and economy class cabins showcasing warm service with signature Bhutanese dedication and hospitality. For more information on direct flights from Singapore to Paro, visit Drukair’s official website here.

The Launchpads

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