by Le Concierge Orient
Traversing Nepal
Nepal has a most fascinating history that stretches back to the antiquities, so far back that the kingdom was even mentioned in the ancient Vedic texts. That ancient polity was widely believed to be the birthplace of Gautama Buddha, a prince of the Shakya kingdom who founded Buddhism in the 5th century BCE. Over the next 2,000 years, Nepal came to be established as a land of spirituality and played an important role in transmitting Buddhism to the region and beyond. Interestingly, modern Nepal is overridingly Hindu and was officially a Hindu Kingdom until recently. In the current age, only 9% of its population are Buddhists.
The dynamic confluence of thoughts and culture over the centuries has made Nepal one of the most complex nations in the Himalayan region today. It was a Hindu theocracy, a sovereign kingdom ruled by an autocratic monarchy until a familial tragedy more or less ended that chapter for the country in 2001 when crown prince Dipendra shot his family and himself in cold blood. The monarchy languished on for a few more years before the country was declared a federal democratic republic with the abolition of the Shah dynasty in 2008. Complicated though the country’s modern transitions may be, it is also one of the most alluring and overlooked enigmas on the continent. The raw beauty of what lies within Nepal is surprisingly under the radar, in a region widely renowned for its natural splendour.
Dynastic misfortunes aside, Nepal hasn’t really been dealt a good hand in modern times. A catastrophic magnitude 7.9 earthquake devastated Kathmandu and vast tracts of the surrounding region on April 25, 2015. Hundreds of thousands of Nepalese were made homeless with entire villages flattened across many districts of the country. Centuries-old buildings were destroyed at UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the Kathmandu Valley, including some very prominent heritage structures at the iconic Durbar Squares. Although restorations have been ongoing for over a decade, full restoration of these historic buildings seems unlikely. Fortunately, enough remains for heritage buffs everywhere to delve into a cultural exposé of Nepal through these surviving edifices.
Most recently, in September 2025, widespread Gen Z protests erupted in Kathmandu after the government imposed a ban on multiple social media platforms. The protests quickly grew to include complaints about corruption, nepotism, and lack of opportunity. Fresh elections were held in March 2026 and the Rastriya Swatantra Party won a landslide victory, gaining a majority in the House of Representatives. Through it all, the resilience and indomitable spirit of the Nepalese shone through, but with so much up in the air for the country, it is anyone’s guess if the new government will be able to lead the country out of its state of arrested development. In the meantime, the country remains open for business on all fronts; this is felicitous news for avid travellers everywhere keen to explore these enigmatic lands that once cradled monumental thoughts and belief systems so pervasive in the modern world.
The Destinations and Launchpads
Kathmandu
Kathmandu is the capital of the nation with more than 1.7 million inhabitants packed into this densely populated valley. Historically known as the Nepal Mandala, the valley has been the cultural and political hub for the Newar people, a significant urban civilisation in the Himalayan region. Recognised as one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in the world, Kathmandu’s history dates back to the 2nd century AD, and is today a rich repository of grand palaces, temples, and gardens reflecting its rich heritage.
Organised chaos is the metaphorical state of the Nepalese capital with rapid urbanisation coupled with an estimated population growth rate of 6.5% per year, making Kathmandu one of the fastest-growing metropolitan areas in South Asia. This trend is driven by high rural-to-urban migration, unplanned construction, and the conversion of agricultural land into a mishmash of hastily built-up areas, creating significant infrastructure pressure in the packed capital. This isn’t a cookie-cutter city by any standards, but it is a charming city nonetheless. The heritage sites are arresting, the mood is laid-back, and there is a warmth that extends from the general populace to tourists here despite the urban realities. While in Kathmandu, it would be impossible not to visit the Durbar Squares and explore the heritage sites within, each of them a standing testament to the rites of passage of the country. Also, it is almost impossible to bypass Kathmandu before one ventures out to the country’s arresting interiors.
Launchpad
The Dwarika’s, Kathmandu
Founded by Dwarika Das Shrestha who had a singular passion for Nepal’s ornate wood carvings — which in the 1950s were destined for the fireplace — Dwarika’s started from a storage building for these ornate antiques before lavish annexes harbouring sumptuous suites and rooms were added to the compound. Today, third-generation owner Vijay Rene Shrestha and his mother Sangita Shrestha are hard at work raising a spanking new wing to add to the legacy, a luxurious all-suite extension that aims to redefine the hospitality landscape in the country. Thanks to the late Mr Shrestha’s passion, many of Nepal’s priceless wood carvings have survived into the modern age, restored as the fabulous windows of The Dwarika’s, an abode of uncommon splendour that holds its own against all the other UNESCO heritage edifices of Kathmandu.
Sitting in the tranquil compound, tea or beer in hand depending on the season and time of day, under the shade of trees and the red brick buildings, is a privilege to savour and remember. It could be the vibrant colours of the potted chrysanthemums, the lulling melodies of the song birds or the evening perfume of the night jasmines, but there is no escaping its timeless magic when one is luxuriating amidst the gorgeous milieu of this pleasure palace. Four restaurants offer Japanese, Nepalese and Indian and Continental flavours, but except for the rituals of Nepalese dining one can only enjoy at Krishnarpan, we highly recommend a sampling of the rest in the inviting courtyard, in plain sight of the arresting carvings that are still holding the Shresthas’ dream together.
The Dwarika’s, Battisputali Rd, Kathmandu 44600, Nepal
Mustang, Nepal
Mustang is the second least populated district of Nepal and is divided into the Lower and Upper sub regions. This is a high-altitude trans-Himalayan region with an average elevation of 13,200 ft (4,023m) that comprises vast and arid valleys, distinguished by eroded canyons, vividly coloured rock formations and barren high-altitude deserts. Spring and autumn here are generally dry, while summer rains from July to September can cause dramatic alterations to the landscapes with gushing rivers and bursts of growth that carpet the valleys.
Much of the history of Mustang is about legends rather than documented facts, which adds to the fascination one can nurse for this storied region. Upper Mustang, formerly known as Kingdom of Lo, was a closed territory more tied to the Tibetan polity and culture with a majority of the population still speaking traditional Tibetan languages. At the end of the 18th century, the kingdom was annexed by Nepal and became a dependency of the Kingdom of Nepal. Up until 2008, the Kingdom of Lo or Upper Mustang was an ethnic Tibetan kingdom and a vassal state of the Kingdom of Nepal. After the civil war that overthrew the Nepalese monarchy, Nepal became a republic and Mustang became just another district of Nepal.
Foreign visitors have been allowed to the region since 1992, but tourism to Upper Mustang is largely regulated and foreigners need to obtain a special permit to enter. Most tourists visit for the region’s trekking trails, which largely follow the same trade route used in the 15th century. Mustang is rich in Buddhist culture, similar to the area of the Tibet Autonomous Region of the People’s Republic of China. Visiting Mustang therefore provides alternative initiation into Tibetan culture and landscape out of the Autonomous Region.
Jomsom lies in Lower Mustang and is the main gateway to Upper Mustang. It lies south of the village of Kagbeni, a Tibetan-influenced village filled with prayer wheels, chortens and a Buddhist monastery. The trail passing through Jomsom follows the Kali Gandaki River which forms the deepest ravine in the world; on one side lies the Annapurna mountain range and on the other side is Dhaulagiri. Jomsom is also the launchpad into faraway and mysterious villages and monasteries raised at this end of Nepal: Lubra is a remote, ancient village renowned as one of the last remaining strongholds of the pre-Buddhist Bon traditions. Jharkot is a historic village known for its authentic Tibetan culture, ancient monastery (Jharkot Gompa), and stunning views of the Annapurna range. Marpha is a picturesque, rustic village renowned as the “Apple Capital” of Nepal. Located along the Kali Gandaki Valley and the Annapurna Circuit, it features whitewashed stone houses, narrow, clean stone-paved alleys, and extensive apple orchards.
Launchpad
Shinta Mani Mustang
The conception of a magnificent hideaway like Shinta Mani Mustang must have taken a huge dose of gumption and conviction to realise. In truth, this singular mountain retreat, raised atop a rocky outcrop basking in the glory of the majestic Himalayas, can very well be an once-in-a-lifetime escapade for luxury buffs and adventure seekers alike, for Mustang lies deep within Nepal and is currently accessible only after a flight and drive route from Kathmandu. A journey on the road is somewhat unthinkable given the unstable road conditions of the Nepalese interiors. Once there however, lyrical dreamscapes begin to materialise from every corner upon entering the Bill Bensley designed interiors. An elongated courtyard leads to the stone walled, richly wooded lobby filled with cultural accoutrements and contemporary artworks, and attended to by sharply dressed staff. The lobby in turn opens to a wide terrace pointing towards the jaw-dropping vistas of the Nilgiri Range. Twenty nine suites were carved from these sumptuous confines, and they all point towards the same handsome, often snowy peaks, let in through generous tracts of floor to ceiling windows at the end of the rooms.
The interiors are inspiringly plush for a locale so far removed from the rest of the world — inside the rooms are exquisite hand-woven cashmere blankets and cushions, beautiful handmade rugs and artisanal Tibetan handicrafts. Shinta Mani Mustang is an all-inclusive resort and part of the experiential highlights are the elaborate lunches the dedicated butler and his invisible back-of-house team usually stage for guests in faraway, exotic spots across the valley, like the rooftop of a farm house in a centuries-old mystical settlement or the private courtyard kitchen of a bon vivant over at the nearby ancient hamlet. Back from these adventures, one must find time to luxuriate at the fabulous spa where the treatment suites come replete with a host of thermal-hydro amenities, from steam rooms to saunas and hot plunge pools. Evenings here are ladened with gourmet delights that change daily, with culinary permutations going from designer momos to deconstructed regional fare, all preceded by a round of drinks at the sophisticated yet cosy bar, and a nightcap after, if one wishes.
Shinta Mani Mustang, Gharapjhong-3, Jomsom, Mustang, Nepal
Dhulikhel
Dhulikhel has been for centuries an important trading centre on the commercial route linking Nepal to Tibet. Dhulikhel Municipality has emerged as a major tourist destination as it is relatively close to the capital Kathmandu with attractions that range from natural enclaves to cultural and historical sites. From a good vantage point at Dhulikhel, one can have a bird’s eye view of the Himalayan range including Mt. Annapurna, Mt. Ganesh Himal, and Mt. Lhotse among others. A host of other attractions include religious sites like Bhagawati and Kalidevi (prominent temples dedicated to the Goddess Durga) and Gaukhureshwor (a cluster of temples steeped in rituals and worship).
Launchpad
Dwarika’s Sanctuary
Roughly an hour away from Kathmandu depending on the unpredictable traffic, Dwarika’s Sanctuary was carved from the forested mountainside of Dhulikhel, in plain sight of the snowy peaks of the Himalayan range across the plains. The views here may be arresting, but it is the experiences set in place that are nothing short of extraordinary. Conceptualised as an all-suite wellness retreat with a spiritual bent, activities here extend beyond your staid salutations to the sun. A network of spaces intertwined with the natural elements of the locale were raised for guests to reconnect with nature and self.
There is a Himalayan Salt House, a Himalayan Crystal House, a Shiva Lingam Meditation Maze, a Brahmanda Indoor Poor, a Garden of the Nine Planets (Navagraha Batika), and a meditation cave, amongst other reflective spaces dotting the expansive grounds here. And of course there is a glorious spa here that promises to soothe the muscles if not inner peace. The suites here are spacious dens decked out with alpine refinements; the Executive Suite in particular opens to the most gorgeous views of the mountain ranges from a distance with a comely rooftop patio for more personal outdoor space. Dwarika’s is a hospitality group that practises sustainability and operates a cluster of farms to produce its own fruits and vegetables, so the menus at all three restaurants here feature locally farmed nourishments, good for both body and soul.
Dwarika’s Sanctuary, Resort Marg, Dhulikhel 45200, Nepal
